Overview

I thought it might be helpful if I started this book with an overview that would more or less summarize the book and allow you to go directly to sections that might be of special interest to you rather than having to read the entire book first. Once you have read the overview you have the choice of reading a section you might be especially interested in before you read the entire book.

The major difference between growing a tomato to eat and growing a tomato for size has to do with selecting a tomato variety that can grow big, and then using soil preparation, watering, fertilizing, and other gardening and pruning techniques to assure that it does.

The growing season for tomato growers begins in the fall with soil preparation. All giant tomato growers agree that the addition of organic material to the garden soil is a must if the plants are to be provided the proper nutrients. Most growers do this in the fall after the garden has been cleaned up and all plant debris removed. Growers add compost, manure, or both to their gardens, depending on what is available. If you are uncertain about the status of your soil, a soil test is useful and should be done before anything is added to the garden. Along with your soil test results will come some suggestions about steps that need to be taken to improve your soil. Follow these recommendations.

Usually, seed selection takes place during the winter months. Seeds can be purchased, obtained from other growers, or selected from seeds saved from tomatoes grown in the past. Some of the most commonly grown varieties for size in the United States include Big Zac, Domingo, MegaMarv, Delicious, Slankards and Brutus Magnum Click here for others. Seek out seeds from successful growers. They will almost always share.

Starting your plants from seed is important since you want good strong plants and the varieties you will be growing are usually not available as plants in stores. There are many ways to germinate seeds and you may already know how to accomplish this. Every technique requires the presence of warmth and moisture. The ideal temperature for germination falls somewhere between 70˚ and 80˚ and the most favorable is closer to 80˚. Germination can take anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks for some tomato varieties. Seeds are usually started 6 to 8 weeks before the grower's final frost date. Start 2 to 3 times the number of seeds you want plants as not all seeds will germinate and also so that you later can select only the strongest of the plants.

The seedlings must be provided an environment in which they can thrive. Initially they will require some artificial light with fluorescent lighting being the most often used source. A south-facing window will work but not as well as florescent lights. As the plants grow, continue to transplant them into progressively larger containers. If you find that your plants are becoming tall but not sufficiently wide, you are either not providing them enough light, overwatering or over-fertilizing them.

Tomato plants started indoors have been protected from the outside environment and will need to be transitioned from the greenhouse to the garden. This usually takes about a week. Start by putting your plants outside in the shade and then slowly moving them into full sun for progressively longer periods of time. If you harden your plants properly, they will be able to withstand full sun, lower temperatures and breezes when permanently placed outside.

In preparation for planting your tomatoes in the garden, you should prepare planting holes. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and 24 inches wide in preparation for the arrival of your tomato plant. Place the first 6 inches of soil removed from the hole in a 5 gallon bucket. The lower 6 inches of soil removed can be spread around the garden. Add a handful of bone meal and a handful of tomato-tone to the bucket and then fill it with compost. Mix this up and pour it into the hole.

Plants can be moved to the garden, with protection, 2 weeks prior to the last frost date in your area. Planting tomatoes out too early gives little advantage and exposes the plants to the risk of cold injury. When you do transplant, remove the lowest leaves from the plant. Make a place with your hands for the tomato plant and gently pull the soil to the plant and then lightly compress the soil. Water the plants to remove any pockets of air. I add fish/seaweed emulsion to the water.

One of the secrets of growing big tomatoes is pruning. The first and only sucker allowed to grow should be the one directly below the very first fruit cluster on the main vine. This sucker should grow to become your second main vine. Any other suckers should be removed after forming one or two leaves. The number of tomatoes per plant begins with two to four and is reduced to one if there is a big tomato present on the plant. Of the two main vines, the one without a big tomato is terminated just above the level of the tomato you decide to actually grow. The other main vine's growing tip is also terminated just above your biggest tomato. Once the tomatoes of choice are set, all new blossoms are pruned off. Little or no new growth is allowed on the plant during the last month of the tomato's growth, so that all energy is directed into that one big tomato. Don't be shy when pruning.

To grow a really big tomato you must be able to recognize and care for a megabloom. This is the blossom that will give you a big tomato. The megabloom (MB), when closely examined, has more than one anther. It is made up of two or more regular blossoms which have fused together. A megabloom is defined as a blossom made up of two or more blossoms that have fused into one. Recognizing a MB is the key to success in growing giant tomatoes. All tomatoes, 5 pounds or more, were the result of fused blossoms.

Once you have several large tomatoes growing on your plant you can begin the process of pruning the smaller ones off and not allowing any new ones to form. If your plant does not produce any megablooms, allow all the tomatoes it produces to grow and later these will be the ones you eat.

Tomato plants need support. Most growers use 8 foot long wooden stakes, rebar, or pipes buried one to two feet in the ground to support their plants. Some construct cages using concrete reinforcing wire. Tomato ties can be made from a multitude of materials. Be certain you are attentive to supporting your biggest tomatoes; else they will tear away from the vine.

If your soil has been prepared properly you will not need to do a lot of fertilizing. I would suggest giving each tomato plant a drench of one gallon of water every 10 to 14 days to which has been added one ounce of fish/seaweed emulsion. If your plant appears to need more I would suggest giving give each plant a drench of one gallon of water to which has been added either Miracle-Gro All purpose Fertilizer (12-4-8) with micronutrients or something comparable.

Properly watering your plants is dependent on the type soil you have. An important concept to remember is that you need to maintain the moisture level of your soil as constant as possible, and you must keep your soil moist but not wet. There is great variability from garden to garden as to the sand, clay and organic content of the soil. Sandy soil drains rapidly and requires frequent watering while soil which is high in clay or organic matter content drains slowly and requires much less water. Recommendations for watering can range from 3 gallons per plant per week to 2 gallons per day, less if it rains and more if it is hot. Besides being dependent on soil type there is variation depending on size of the plant. Bigger plants need more water. There are many ways to water. The use of a watering can or watering with a drip watering system keeps the water off the leaves and decreases the likelihood of fungal infections. I would suggest installing an inexpensive drip watering system. When you are away from home you can relax, knowing that your plants are still being watered.

Mulching is important. Mulch reduces the germination of weed seed and prevents their emergence. Mulch reduces the evaporation of water from your garden and reduces the need to water. Many different materials can be used to mulch. I prefer straw, compost, partially composted leaves or dry grass clippings. A 3 inch layer of whatever you decide to use will provide good weed control. After the growing season is over the mulch can simply be tilled into your garden for an addition of wanted organic material.

Disease management in your garden should emphasize prevention rather than treatment. Keep a close eye on your plants and if you see a problem, respond to it. Fungal infestations can be prevented by removing deteriorating leaves and leaves that are touching the ground. The use of a milk spray to prevent fungus works by altering the pH on the surface of plant leaves. Preventive gardening practices cannot be overemphasized. Be certain to remove all organic debris and weeds from your garden at the end of the growing season.

Grow 'em big.

Here's a piece that Marv did with Penn State.